Fortuitous Glance

A fortuitous moment. A glance to the right and the orca was betrayed by his huge black dorsal fin. Triangular in shape it was joined by a second, slightly curved fin that revealed it to be female. The pair cruised into the lagoon through a narrow outlet leading out into the Atlantic. If the sea lions on the shore were aware of them then they were remarkably cool. On the far bank, one sea lion was isolated from the rest who congregated in front of us, huddled together in low, red sunset light. The orcas swam slowly but purposefully past the lone seal. Apparently past.

The theatre for this drama was the Valdes Peninsular in Argentine Patagonia. It was made famous by the wonderful BBC footage of 9 metre orcas snatching sea lions and elephant seal pups from the shore, a method of hunting that involves deliberate beaching before forceful thrashing returns them to safe water.

The peninsular covers some 4,000 square kilometres and is a relatively easy if rugged area to explore, although encounters with orcas are far from guaranteed. Most visitors come here for excellent views of southern right whales which choose the Valdes as their breeding ground between August and December. They were christened (southern) right whales because hunters classed them as being the right whales to hunt on account of the ease it took to hunt them as they are fond of approaching boats and show little fear. Happily they are now protected and this inquisitiveness now results in stunning views for visitors.

Four to six hundred whales arrive here annually making close encounters virtually guaranteed. A good option is to take a small inflatable, less intrusive than larger boats and which the whales will approach with more confidence, often to within only a metre or two. The young are especially curious and will linger by the side of the boat long enough for you to work out how to fit such a large animal into one photograph at such close range. You might then turn your attention to trying to capture the whales breaching, heaving their huge bodies clear of the water to spectacular effect.

The peninsular is accessed by gravel roads which link notable “points”. In between the terrain is typical Patagonia, eye straining expanses of dense scrub grazed by sheep or cattle but also home to the llama like guanaco, the ostrich like rhea, the mara, a patagonia hare and birds including black breasted buzzard eagle and turkey vultures. All are relatively easy to spot.

The coastline of the valdes is inaccessible apart from a number of points some 50km apart where visitor centres have been built and viewing areas created to observe important breeding colonies of elephant seals, sea lions and magellenic penguins. The latter viewed at exceptionally close quarters nesting at the top of the beach and, if the timing is right, you will get a peak of a recently hatched chick

The peninsular can be explored as part of an organised tour or by hiring a car from nearby Puerto Madryn and driving from point to point which allows the freedom of planning your visits to specific points according to your wishes. The orca attacks happen at high tide at Punta Norte and Punta Cantor so it is worth checking a tide table if this is your goal.

The tide was at its highest point as the 2 orcas changed direction and accelerated in tandem towards the shore and to the lone sea lion, the fading red sun at their backs and so in the eyes of the seal. Was this deliberate? With tremendous effort they surged forward up onto the sandy bank. A moment late as the panic-stricken sealion heaved its body out of the orcas reach, to safety and another day.