Fortuitous Glance

A fortuitous moment. A glance to the right and the orca was betrayed by his huge black dorsal fin. Triangular in shape it was joined by a second, slightly curved fin that revealed it to be female. The pair cruised into the lagoon through a narrow outlet leading out into the Atlantic. If the sea lions on the shore were aware of them then they were remarkably cool. On the far bank, one sea lion was isolated from the rest who congregated in front of us, huddled together in low, red sunset light. The orcas swam slowly but purposefully past the lone seal. Apparently past.

The theatre for this drama was the Valdes Peninsular in Argentine Patagonia. It was made famous by the wonderful BBC footage of 9 metre orcas snatching sea lions and elephant seal pups from the shore, a method of hunting that involves deliberate beaching before forceful thrashing returns them to safe water.

The peninsular covers some 4,000 square kilometres and is a relatively easy if rugged area to explore, although encounters with orcas are far from guaranteed. Most visitors come here for excellent views of southern right whales which choose the Valdes as their breeding ground between August and December. They were christened (southern) right whales because hunters classed them as being the right whales to hunt on account of the ease it took to hunt them as they are fond of approaching boats and show little fear. Happily they are now protected and this inquisitiveness now results in stunning views for visitors.

Four to six hundred whales arrive here annually making close encounters virtually guaranteed. A good option is to take a small inflatable, less intrusive than larger boats and which the whales will approach with more confidence, often to within only a metre or two. The young are especially curious and will linger by the side of the boat long enough for you to work out how to fit such a large animal into one photograph at such close range. You might then turn your attention to trying to capture the whales breaching, heaving their huge bodies clear of the water to spectacular effect.

The peninsular is accessed by gravel roads which link notable “points”. In between the terrain is typical Patagonia, eye straining expanses of dense scrub grazed by sheep or cattle but also home to the llama like guanaco, the ostrich like rhea, the mara, a patagonia hare and birds including black breasted buzzard eagle and turkey vultures. All are relatively easy to spot.

The coastline of the valdes is inaccessible apart from a number of points some 50km apart where visitor centres have been built and viewing areas created to observe important breeding colonies of elephant seals, sea lions and magellenic penguins. The latter viewed at exceptionally close quarters nesting at the top of the beach and, if the timing is right, you will get a peak of a recently hatched chick

The peninsular can be explored as part of an organised tour or by hiring a car from nearby Puerto Madryn and driving from point to point which allows the freedom of planning your visits to specific points according to your wishes. The orca attacks happen at high tide at Punta Norte and Punta Cantor so it is worth checking a tide table if this is your goal.

The tide was at its highest point as the 2 orcas changed direction and accelerated in tandem towards the shore and to the lone sea lion, the fading red sun at their backs and so in the eyes of the seal. Was this deliberate? With tremendous effort they surged forward up onto the sandy bank. A moment late as the panic-stricken sealion heaved its body out of the orcas reach, to safety and another day.

Condor Cliffs

It wasn´t the advertised headline in the flyer but the smaller caption promising close views and many sightings of the world´s largest bird of prey that seized my attention.

The flyer was promoting a cruise to view the Searrano Glacier, a 2.5 hour trip from Puerto Natales, the Chilean gateway town to the reknown Torres Del Paine National Park. The trip was along the optimistically named Last Hope Sound. The name derives from the sailor ... who was trying to discover the Magellan Strait, a convenient shortcut that avoided the perilous journey around Cape Horn. But it was neither a fabulous glacier nor important maritime shortcut that caught the eye.

The Andean Condor has, at over 3 metres, the largest wingspan of any bird. It is widespread over the andean range but the birds of the patagonian andes are surely the hardiest of the species given the region´s tough and temperamental climate.

Patagonia was living up to its reputation as we left harbour and motored past a small party of black necked swans. Rain, mist covered mountains and a biting wind for which the region is famous. The good ship 21 de Mayo has capacity for 100 and was near to full despite the weather´s attempts to scare off - this being Halloween after all.

The journey was surprisingly calm and gave greater understanding to why such a heavy price was placed on charting the area. The presence of the mountains and the relative small body of water prevents big seas forming. How the ghosts of mariners lost around the Cape must curse for lack of an earlier discovery.

Our concern was no greater than whether we would be fortunate enough to catch sight of a condor in such unpleasant conditions. A cormorant colony and then a sealion colony soon after came into view. Both sea-creatures huddled among species of their own kind to keep warm, the sealions camoflaged well among the rocks.

Our first glimpse of a condor came just after we had picked out the sealions. It glided over a cliffface and disappeared form view, it´s massive size and shape the only clue to its identity.

We did not have to wait long to see more. "Condor Cliff" we were told was home to some 20 birds and as our boat drifted near we caught sight of two perched high on the cliff face taking shelter. The distance between us did not mask their enormity. The resemblance to a large turkey is not merely passing. The body is large and chunky and streaked with white which appears better in flight. They have the typical featherless head of a vulture, perfect for cleaning after being burried into a carcass. And aroud their neck, a white colour of feathers to give it a very distinctive appearance.

If the above decription gives the impression of an ugly bird then in flight they reveral their true self. Their enormity in itself is impressive but it is their effortless economy of movement that most impresses. It was rare to see one flap its mighty wings. In flight the white backs of the wings add colour and their long wing tips "primary fetahers" spread like fingers reveal an unlikley elegance.

As we reached the Serrano Glacier and were greeted to the sound of crashing ice into water, 4 more birds circled above us. The sun had arrived late and the condors made up for lost time by circling on the thermals. Andean Condors will soar for hours and travel great distances. They are not hunters, that they do not deliver the killer blow. They wait for nature to run its course before ridding the landscape of a carcass, scavenging huge quantities of meat at a single sitting.

We saw more on return when the cormorants and sealions were still sheltering from the returning rain and wind. In a land where only the strongest truly survive, it is somehow fitting that the world´s largest bird of prey should be the one to master it.

Walking the Favela

Walking the Favela
Taking a tour of one of Rio´s infamous favelas had not been on the agenda. Not through fear, although this was a factor, but because I saw no reason to see the poverty at close quarters. Fear of a guilty conscience perhaps. Speaking with local tour guides helped change my mind as I learned that responsible tours give back to the community in many ways not least through education.
We took a tour of Rocinha, one of Rio´s largest favelas and like many, an area controlled by a drug lord. The public image of the favelas is not good to say the least and yet Christina, our guide assured us that we would be 100% safe within Rocinha as crime is totally prohibyted by the drug lord and any acts dealt with severely. Surprising as this first sounded it made perfect sense when Christina explained that the drug gangs wanted as little pólice intereference as possible and also to create a safe environment in which to attract the wealthier classes into the area to buy drugs in confidence.
The official figure for Rocinha is aa population of 60,000 but this is a massive underestimate. The electricity board estaimates some 127,000 people living in this city-within-a-city and yet even this may be inaccurate judging form the many instances of illegal tapping into the wires, just one example of the local population keeping costs to a minimum in order to survive. The need to do so is perhaps best explained by the contrasts surrounding the favela. Opposite to the entrance to Rocinha is Rio´s most prestigous school, the American School. Here, the monthly fee for pupils is some 4000 Reis, the minimum wage in the favela just 350 Reis per month. With such disparity it is all too easy to understand why children look to drugs as a way to lift themselves out of poverty. To act as a lookout, the lowest rung in the gang hierarchy, brings in 800 Reis a month, way more than the minimum salary.
And yet drugs are not the only option and many schemes are now in place to offer childrfen an alternative. We stopped to view the artworks of a number of both children and adults who are encouraged to develop their skills and sell to the turists who visit Rocinha each day. Typically the colourful paintings depict famous Rio views or landmarks such as the Maracana football stadium or the statue of Christ the Redeemer on Corvocado hill. Showing both an inventive as well as creative streak, stylish bags are made from magazines and hats from plastic shopping bags. Not that we would have been any the wiser had we not been told.
The very location of Rocinha is staggering in itself. Nestled in amongst the Rio hills it is surrounded by remants of the Atlantic rainforest, a serious rival to the Amazon for biodiversity. The views across the city are spectacular and take in Corcovado and the Sugar Loaf. On the hill opposite, one of Rio´s most fabulous homes whose owner has his own private island south of the city and is a world famous surgeon who has operated on Sophia Loren and Jacques Chirrac amongst other famous names. He has endeared himself to the people of Rocinha and beyond by performing free operations for the poor each Friday. It is philanthropic acts such as this that provides hope of a better future for the people of Rio´s favelas.
Walking the streets we were lucky to hit upon market day and Rocinha was buzzing with produce as varied as you might expect to see at Borough Market on a weekend. The houses look poorly constructed and the wiring positively lehtal yet we were assured that there are no instances of collapsing buildings, fire or any records of electrocution. Indeed, many of the electricians working for the electricity board live in the favelas which would explain the extensive wiring that is everywhere.
Amongst the impression of close cooperation, the emphasis on a crime free favela and the communty projects springing up the problems that a favela like Rocinha faces should still be highlighted. They receive hostile press, strike fear into the hearts of most Brazillians who wil not venture inside and receive little help form politicians who ignore th poverty and are either unwilling or unable to tackle the powerful drug lords. The drug lords themselves are part of the vicious circle. Few last long, sometimes only days and the average life expectancy for somebody involved with a ganag is 30 we were told.
Later we visited a much smaller favela called Para Ti numbering a mere 2,500. Here we visited a community school partly funded by the money we paid to take the tour. It has 80 attendees, 40 in the morning and 40 in the afternoon and amongst other features it has 8 computers with free internet access and also produces its own handicrafts which it sells to visitors.
Taking a short 3 hour tour may only provide a limited insight and it certainly does not give a full comprehension of the difficulties the inhabitants of a favela face. But it does break down illusions, false assumptions and fear that bad press creates for the favelas. They may be many things but a tour certainly proves them to be fascinating, colourful, stimulating and, to my mind, thoroughly worthwhile.